When Christopher Ward launched their Twelve model last year, it marked a significant moment for the enduring British brand as they ventured into the realm of integrated bracelet sports watches for the very first time. This bold step was soon followed by a more refined 36mm version. However, the latest iteration, the Twelve X, has truly raised the stakes. Crafted as a skeletonized marvel, this piece stands as their priciest offering to date, and I've had the pleasure of examining it closely over the past week.
Initially, the Twelve X didn't quite win me over. Sporting a 41mm diameter and a thickness of 12.3mm, it's the bulkier sibling within the Twelve collection, diverging from the more familiar 36mm or 40mm sizes I've grown accustomed to.
The design, with its sharp angles and facets reminiscent of Genta's iconic style, seems to naturally call for a slimmer profile. Yet, on experiencing it firsthand, the watch's larger size becomes noticeably prominent on the wrist. The saving grace here is its construction from grade 2 and grade 5 titanium, ensuring that the watch remains remarkably lightweight despite its grander scale.
Digging deeper into the reasoning behind the Twelve X's size reveals a compelling justification. It houses the Christopher Ward SH21 calibre—a powerhouse twin-barreled, COSC-certified movement boasting a 120-hour power reserve, developed in collaboration with Synergies Horlogères in 2014. Accommodating such an ambitious movement necessitated a larger case. Understanding this makes the size less of an issue for me, as the substantial increase in power reserve and specifications justifies a few extra millimeters.
The skeletonized nature of the Twelve X offers a fascinating glimpse into the calibre's inner workings. Interestingly, Christopher Ward chose to employ state-of-the-art CNC machining for finishing these movements, aiming for a consistent and precise look over traditional hand-finishing. The watch adopts an industrial, somewhat brutalist aesthetic, showcasing the springs of its double barrel and other mechanical features. This design direction feels like a nod to the C60 Concept from 2021, another skeletonized model based on the same movement but with a chunkier 42mm profile due to its diver watch status.
After spending some time with the Twelve X, one feature that stood out to me was its innovative bracelet clasp. The micro-adjustable butterfly clasp allows for adjustments up to 3mm, substantially enhancing the watch's comfort and wearability—a thoughtful addition that Christopher Ward plans to implement across its range.
Christopher Ward's launch of the Twelve last year marked a significant milestone for the British watchmaker as they ventured into the realm of integrated bracelet sports watches for the first time, followed by an elegant 36mm version. The introduction of the Twelve X edition has further elevated their game, presenting a skeletonized powerhouse that stands as their priciest creation to this day—a model I've scrutinized over the past week.
Initially, the Twelve X didn't entirely capture my fancy. Its 41mm diameter and 12.3mm thickness make it the most substantial version in the Twelve collection, diverging from the sizes I'm more inclined towards. Despite this, its composition of grade 2 and grade 5 titanium ensures it remains surprisingly light.
The size of the Twelve X, while initially a point of contention for me, serves a crucial purpose. It encases the formidable Christopher Ward SH21 calibre—a COSC-certified movement with a twin barrel offering a 120-hour power reserve, developed in collaboration with Synergies Horlogères. This revelation made me view the watch's dimensions in a new light, appreciating the necessity for its larger frame to house such an impressive mechanism.
The Twelve X doesn't shy away from flaunting its mechanics, thanks to a skeletonized display that offers a peek into the calibre's inner workings. Opting for high-end CNC machining over traditional hand-finishing, Christopher Ward ensures a consistent and precise finish. Its industrial, almost brutalist look, accentuated by the exposed components, echoes the aesthetic of the C60 Concept from 2021, albeit in a slightly less bulky form.
A standout feature that has grown on me is its micro-adjustable butterfly clasp, enhancing the watch's comfort and practicality. This innovation is something Christopher Ward aims to standardize across their range, improving wearability significantly.
Priced at £3,750 with a rubber strap and £4,120 with a titanium bracelet, the Twelve X sees Christopher Ward making a bold move into the mid-luxury watch market, a departure from their more accessible offerings.
Facing off against heavyweights like Tudor and Grand Seiko, the Twelve X finds itself amidst stiff competition. Yet, its closest rival in design and aesthetics might be the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 115, which commands a price roughly £2,000 above the CW.
With the Twelve X, Christopher Ward not only upholds its mechanical prowess through the SH21 but also marries an industrial design with a sporty flair, resulting in a harmonious and thoughtfully crafted watch. However, given its pricing, I ponder its standing against its esteemed competitors.
Where do my thoughts settle on the Twelve X? Mechanically speaking, it's every bit as remarkable as the SH21 has proven to be, and when it comes to its design, it masterfully blends an industrial skeletonized dial with a sporty casing. All in all, it's a thoroughly cohesive and meticulously designed timepiece. However, considering its price point, I'm left pondering how it stacks up against its rivals. What's your take? What are your thoughts?