The opening day of Watches & Wonders in Geneva is always buzzing with excitement, especially with the unveiling of new offerings from industry giants like Rolex, IWC, JLC, and Vacheron. Amidst the multitude of new timepieces, it's refreshing to pause and dedicate some attention to a standout piece for review. Today, we're focusing on the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, an exciting new entry into the collection.
I must note that my time with this watch was limited to about an hour, so while this review will offer a solid first impression, it won't be as comprehensive as an extended evaluation might provide. That said, my initial experience with the watch was notably positive. The new Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT presents itself with an appealing comfort on the wrist. Its 39mm steel diameter hits the perfect balance between vintage charm and practical size, aligning well with expectations for a tool watch. Marking its debut as the first GMT model in the Black Bay 58 lineup, it features the distinctive rotating bezel with a 24-hour display that's essential for a travel watch. The bezel's design, split into day and night segments with black and burgundy colors, adds an interesting twist and certainly sparked conversations even before its unveiling – many had anticipated a new Rolex GMT-Master II "Coke" release, but it seems Tudor has pleasantly surprised us instead.
The bezel's gilt numerals accentuate the watch's vintage aesthetic, complementing the other newly introduced 58 model in gold. Upon closer inspection, the dial reveals several nuances differentiating it from the standard Black Bay 58. Most noticeable is the set of four hands at the center, with the inclusion of the traditional snowflake hour hand, a straight minute hand, and a lollipop-styled seconds hand - deviating from the classic diamond shape to accommodate the diamond-shaped 24-hour GMT hand.
The dial maintains the familiar Black Bay 58 look with its lumed circle, rectangle, and triangle markers. An interesting detail is the “Master Chronometer” inscription above the 6 o’clock position, indicating the presence of a METAS certified movement within – specifically, the Calibre MT5450-U boasting a 65-hour power reserve. Tudor hints at this being their new mid-size GMT movement, suggesting its future integration into the standard Black Bay models.
Reflecting on my brief encounter with the Black Bay 58 GMT, its blend of retro allure and practical utility stood out. It evokes the golden era of jet-setting luxury while offering functionality that resonates with contemporary users. Priced at £3,770 for the rubber strap version and £3,930 for the steel bracelet, it represents a significant investment but is an attractive proposition for enthusiasts drawn to its unique charm and capabilities.
See the Tudor website for more info
This Article is informational. We are not affiliated with Tudor , Rolex, IWC, JLC, or Vacheron.